Ah yes, who doesn't love Flamers of Tzeentch? Probably your opponent, lol.

For the points they can be quite devastating. They glance and wound on a 4+ (which really hurts MEQ armies). Thanks to the Deep Strike rule you can drop them in for a suicidal strike, or if you prefer hide them somewhere safe and rely on their jump ability and 4+ invulnerable save. They give the Daemons a much needed anti-tank punch.

You might ask "How many should I run, though?" The answer is simple; groups of three are very effective. The reason is flamers can't get any more than three templates off (Breathe of Chaos) on their first round of shooting. I suppose you could run more units, with one having Bolt of Tzeentch (30 points Range 24" Str 8 Ap1), though for the point cost I don't think it's worth it.

When Deep Striking you place the first unit (assuming they didn't mishap) then the second and third starting in a circle in the next row. That means the unit's bases are all touching one another. Adding a fourth model doesn't allow you to fire one of the templates without wounding your own units, which makes them less useful as a suicide unit. Granted, you can always run up to twelve, but if you want that many you may as well run a few squads of three instead. You'll get better results having more squads if you plan to drop them in as suicide units.

I got a good deal recently on a three pack of Flamers. It'll be nice to have the extra models (as I don't trust the pewter to stay together).

A couple coats of Flat White and they're ready for base coating. after a little touch up (I like to add a few watered down skull white layers to help reinforce the base coat) I'll start by adding a few coats of blue ink.

Once the wash dries I paint the flame areas with Iyanden Darksun base coat. It works great if you want to start a solid coat for yellow areas or in this case painting a flame. My only complaint about GW base paints is that they are pretty thick, so much so it's almost like painting with glue lol. I heard this is because they have such a high pigment (oink, jk). Still, a little water is all you need to keep it nice and smooth.

Here are the recent poll results...

What tutorials do you enjoy the most?

Painting Techniques	3 (33%)
Green Stuff/Sculpting	4 (44%)
Model Customization	7 (77%)
Terrain Making	4 (44%)
Other...	1 (11%)

The polls are in with 77% of us preferring to read about Model Customization posts. Green Stuff/Sculpting and Terrain Making are tied at second. I couldn't agree more. I find customized models to be the coolest thing about the hobby.

With that said I'm going to post more model customizing. I just did a lot of kit bashing and can't wait to finish this model. It's turning out really cool :)

Here's a few quick pics of the LoC so far. I decided to stop using GS for the flames and instead am going to try melting plastic instead. I like this method a lot more since it's much faster and you can remodel it instantly if you don't like the shape.

I'm trying to decide on a paint scheme for the Lord of Change. Here's a few examples

This one is displayed on the GW website. It's very clean and nice contrast in colors. I especially like the detail on the tips of the wings. The on;y reason why I don't want to paint it this scheme is that most of the LoC I see are this or a variation of it.

Two great examples from the CoolMiniOrNot.com gallery. Both of them are very creative and unique (which I think every painter aspires).

This one is a great model. I really like the bright colors of the wings and armor. The contrast against the skin is fantastic. This really makes the model "pop" and is the direction I'd like to go with my LoC.

This last one is from the cover of Wolf's Honor by Lee Lightner. The light colors and the bright metals look great for contrast. The color scheme in the background is what I plan to do for the base.

There you have it. I'm leaning towards the last one, but any input is appreciated :)

I finally managed to get the LoC to stay together. All that remains is the easy (I hope) attachment of his left arm and gap filling.

As you can see the wings don't sit very well. I think they need to be pinned into place

Using a small carbide bit and dremel, I punched a hole through the wing. It was the perfect size for a brad or paper clip to slip through.

I marked the spot by "painting" the tip of the brad with a sharpie and pressing it against his shoulder. I then made a note of the angle and began to drill into the body.

The angle was pretty good, but the brad refused to stay in place. I switched to a paperclip and bent it to give it some tension and it held nicely.

The next day after work I drilled the other wing. This time it lined up better so the bard worked.

Satisfied with the results I re-glued the right arm (it pulled off slightly while the wing dried). As you can see from the first pic the model leans heavily on the right leg. Considering the weight of the model I may have to pin both legs to the base.

Here's a few examples of some of the gaps in the body. Most noticeably are the wings and how unstable they seat. Nothing a little Green stuff can't fix :)

My advice if you plan to pin a pewter model is let it cool if it gets too hot. At a few points I started melting the model when drilling which caused the bit to slip, lol. Aside from that make sure the bit is in pretty good shape otherwise it may seize up in the process.

~~~ Lord please change this model to plastic ffs! ~~~

I'm kidding of course, but still pewter can be a righteous pain in the ass at times. Nothing is more frustrating then nearly completing a model only to have heavy parts (like wings) fall off lol. I guess it's my own fault for picking an army that's mostly pewter in the first place.

The model decided to stay together this time which will make filling the gaps with green stuff a lot easier. All that's left now are the wings and the left arm holding a stave.

The model comes with two different staves; the grinning face and the Moon symbol. I'm leaning towards the latter, especially since it weighs less.

By way of design or through mistake, the model is positioned leaning heavily on his left leg. Because of this I think it would look cool to have him attached at an angle leaning off some terrain slightly above the base. This probably sounds odd so I'll post a few pics later in the week to clarify.