Nurgle - GUO III

Added some Blood red and a little red ink to the open sores and eyes. It really adds a nice disgusting contrast to the model haha.





I went over the sores again with Titilating Pink. The skin I started to highlight with a 2:1 mix of Kommando Khaki and Desert Yellow. The horns and nails I used the same mix then coated with Devlin Mud.




Once the highlights are done I'm going to dry brush the model again and then start on some glazes.

Nurgle - GUO II

A quick update to the Great Unclean One. He's been fun to paint so far and I look forward to detailing this big disgusting guy. For the most part I know how I want to paint the body, but I'm still debating on how to do his sword and chains. I want them to look rusted yet contrast against the GUO's skin tone.


I gave the green areas a wash and painted the teeth with Kommando Khaki


Next a dry brush graveyard earth. If you're not familiar with dry brushing, it's a technique that involves lightly "dusting" the model with a little bit of paint (about 10% of what you normally use). This helps add some artificial highlighting not to mention a pretty cool effect.

The only drawback to this technique is it can leave your surface "fuzzy" and can be more prominent the lighter the pigment color. An alternative to dry brushing is wet blending, which is more advanced but yields better results.


Finally I went over the model again with another wash, this time Devlin Mud. As any mini painter can tell you washes are great. They really bring out the contrast in a model. Comparing this to the previous picture you can see how the contrast has changed. Washes also help transition colors together more smoothly.

These are some fairly basic yet effective tools in bringing out a model's details. From my personal experience, learning how to apply just these two techniques has helped me tremendously. It has helped train my eyes to recognize some subtle details that I used to over look.

Nurgle - GUO I

EDIT: Oh yeah. Please vote on the poll to the right! Pick one (or as many) that you agree with. I want to know what kind of tutorials you like to read the most for hobbying.

Me personally, I like it when somebody makes a home made model out of the most unlikely of things, so I vote model customization.

Thanks for your input
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Hey my fellow bitheads! Been busy working on my army for the up-n-coming Campaign.

I figured it's a good time to get as much done as possible (at least basecoated). For me the most difficult part of modeling is getting it to the basing coat. I like to have seams clean and bases based. From then on I think it's easier since they can be table top quickly and detailed atat your own leisure.

With that said have a look at my latest wip: Great Unclean One




One problem I ran into on this guy is his chain (dragging on the ground) didn't pin right. It sits below the model. I didn't want to have to re pin and all that so I decided to raise him up a little. I put Green Stuff on the gaps of the chain to cover where the model doesn't join properly.

Step II: Base coat



I was debating on the base coat. Originally I was going to do white and work up, but I felt it was unnecessary. I decided to go with gray and I think it turned out pretty good. Notice the little dead Space Marine O___O

Step III: Adding in some Green



The first coat is Goblin Green. I'm hitting all the GS areas while trying to avoid the recesses on the body. Once that is finished I'll use a green wash and then onto the next color.

More pics coming soon

Tutorials and campaign rules

I'm currently working on updating the Escilation campaign rules and if I have time I'll make a pdf for it. You can find the rules to the right. The big challenge is trying to implament a fair and balanced point system. This will allow people who play and participate more often more points, yet still allow those who aren't there as much to still have a fighting chance.

As for tutorials I have Blood Angels speed painting almost finished and some more pinning guides. I also have two troop conversions in the works I think you'll enjoy.

KoS - pinning and GS

Working with pewter has been a learning experience. One thing I learned is don't try to take shortcuts if you want your models to stay in one piece lol.

With that said I invested some time researching different pinning techniques. One thing I learnes is a pin vice is much better for pilot hole drilling than a multi-speed dremel on low setting. It's made the drilling process ten times easier and faster (not to mention the model isn't getting hot from friction anymore).


Tools used
  • Hobby knife
  • Super glue
  • Pin Vice (hand drill)
  • wire brush
  • small clippers
  • metal push pins
  • Green Stuff epoxy


Out of all my models this guy has been quite a p.i.t.a. lol. He refuses to stay glued and is fairly unstable. A little pinning will fix that right up :)


The claw arms have already been pinned so now it's on to the more difficult ones. The slight problem with his sword arm is it's set at a weird angle and pushes against his head lol. I started by drilling a small pilot hole with the pin vice and then gluing the pin in place.




I drilled the hole and marked it around a quarter inch. I just need it to be deep enough to join the pieces without weakening it's structural integrity.


A dry fit. These small push pins are great since they are very stiff and gives you something to hold on to. Depending on the model I'll keep the point on and wedge it into a model creating a very snug fit.


For this arm, though, I cut of the tip to keep it flush.


Once the glue dried I cut the pin head off


This is the original pose of the hand. He's doing a "bang-you're-dead" or something. Meh, it's alright, but I think it would look cooler to rotate the wrist and make it look like he's taunting his prey.


Dry fit in place. The wrist has a slight bend which I think adds a little to the theme of the model.


With the glue almost dry I worked some Green Stuff into the wrist. This helped to keep it firmly in place


That's better. A little green stuff goes a long way


With everything in place I ran a hole through the shoulder.


Finally a dry fit for the arm. It fit nicely and just needs a little gs to clean it all up.

There you have it. Pretty simple yet very effective. I finished up pinning all the arms and all that's left is some simple basing then priming.